An incredible and enriching day and one I will find difficult to put into words. Today, I visited La Boca, a somewhat impoverished but wonderful area of Buenos Aires. I went with the aim of seeing a local radio programme in action but I took a lot more away from the experience. If grassroots had a definition, it would be this exact spot, with the exact colourful murals on the walls and in the exact basic set up in the attic of an old building in what looked remarkably like a car park.  In the cold and humid conditions of early spring, it could have been a nightmare invitation but instead, I sat down over a yerba mate to talk about the fascinating and relatively fresh project that the community has established to give locals a voice or as the operator said ' donde caben todas voces'.  And all voices fit in this place, even that of Mel, a German volunteer, who kicked off the show with a description of the weekend charity 'marathon' run (a 5km shortened version of the real thing). 

This radio station in the heart of the people's barrio supports foreigners who wish to volunteer, recognising the need to harmonise, collectivise and come together not only to act against political neglect but also to stay true to community. There is a mini but significant revolution happening within the painted walls of this attic, dotted with satirical animations and reminders of Che Guevara's infamous motto of 'hasta la victoria para siempre'. This radio laughs at propaganda and smiles at truth, not forgetting the country's harsh past, the ashes of which still glow beneath the energy and voices of this community.

If they need a 'vivienda digna' or decent living conditions, they will fight for it through every channel possible and they have helped to mobilise their people to claim their right to live. Live better, live well. All with a great sense of humour, a few cups of mate and a divine playlist. A brilliant crowd and one I will never forget.

Twelve weeks ago, I stumbled into the volunteer’s house full of excitement, if a little frightened. Studying Spanish in the UK, I was required to spend time in a Spanish speaking country and it seemed like a perfectly good reason to come to South America for the first time. Although I could have studied or interned here, volunteering offered me the opportunity to improve my Spanish (crucially), meet Argentinians as well as people from all over the world, and try something new. I know now that I made the right decision. 

During my first meeting, I struggled: overwhelmed by the Argentinian accent and speed at which normal conversation actually flows rather than a woman on a university audiotape, I realised just how much I was going to have to improve to be able to make a difference, but this was why I was here. Gradually, with a lot of concentration, I began to be able to follow the conversation and understand what was going on. Maybe in week 3 or 4, I was able to contribute voluntarily, without waiting for someone to ask me a direct question. By week 10 I was speaking on Voluntario Global’s radio show

Language acquisition is only a small part of how living in Buenos Aires has enhanced my university education – in England, we are not taught extensively on Argentina but simply on Latin America as a whole. Consequently, being here, talking to people, visiting museums, and observing I have learnt far more about Argentina’s complicated past than I ever have before. For example, spotting a Malvinas sticker on a car window brings to light the impact the war had, and how it is still felt to this day. The fact that you are not able to buy alcohol or go to bars after 6pm the night before an election demonstrates how Argentina is still a baby in terms of its democracy, yet equally how seriously they take it.

This passion for democracy and their country is prominent in their passion for discussing Cristina, politics and all things controversial. Coming from traditionally-reserved England, it was incredibly inspiring to hear people speak so freely, volunteering their opinion whilst listening to others. I was rather taken aback when someone first asked me what I thought about the new English PM: not that I didn't want to answer, just that it was a very direct question that back home would be deemed too personal. But afterwards I was pleased they had asked me, that they had been interested in my opinion and my country and that I felt comfortable enough to relay it. 

I have thoroughly enjoyed my time in the VG office, writing articles and reports and having the chance to visit numerous different projects and speak to many different people. To handpick one thing I will take away from the experience is impossible. However, what I can say is that, the next time I want to travel I will be volunteering. It's a responsible way of travelling that allows you to see sides to the city a party hostel wouldn't. It allows you to engage in conversation with locals rather than only other travellers. And it allows you to have a positive impact on the place you are visiting. There's no other way to do it.

Thank you Voluntario Global, I'll miss you!

 

LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR NEW UNIVERSITY ACCREDITATION PARTNERSHIP WITH OMPRAKASH EDGE PROGRAM

Extensive online training and personalized mentorship is available to individuals who are volunteering with Voluntario Global. The program encourages participants to think critically about international aid and volunteering, and works to push back against problematic trends in 'voluntourism.'  

So what do you get when applying to this program?

IMMERSIVE VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES

All those volunteering with Voluntario Global are elegible to  apply for Omprakash EdGE program and find positions based on their skills and interests, and plan their work.  

ACADEMIC CREDIT

The EdGE course has been fully accredited by the Kansas State University Staley School of Leadership Studies. Anybody is eligible to pay an extra tuition fee to KSU in order to earn 3 transferrable academic credits.

AN EXTENSIVE CURRICULUM

Participants join peers in an online pre-departure classroom to explore the moral, ethical, historical, environmental and economic complexities of international aid and volunteering.

PERSONAL MENTORSHIP

Participants receive dedicated personal guidance from experienced Omprakash mentors before, during, and after their volunteer program with Voluntario Global.

UNPARALLELLED AFFORDABILITY

Omprakash offers need-based financial aid to reduce the EdGE program fee.  

 Check out the EdGE Orientation Book to learn more!

Once the meat is ready to eat, the asador will bring it over to the table, and everyone will give him a well-deserved applause for the perfect meat he's delivering. Don't pick up your fork before the applause is over!

It's 12:30 in the afternoon. Regina and I have spent the morning at the Espacio de Memoria in Belgrano, however, in true Argentinian fashion, the museum we had planned to go to afterwards is closed. But it's a beautiful day and we’ve found ourselves a good spot for lunch in the winter sunshine. We’ve spent the past eight weeks together in the Voluntario Global house and, as we both approach the end of our time here, it seems appropriate to do some reflecting. (My 'reflection piece' will come next week, today it's Regina's turn). 

Regina has been volunteering at a health centre in La Boca as a Psychology Assistant – studying both psychology and Spanish at university, it's a very fitting role. I begin by asking her how she feels about returning to the U.S. “I'm going to be so sad! Honestly, I've had such an incredible time here I don't want to think about leaving.” Unlike other volunteers, Regina came here on a fellowship from her university in the United States . She explains that the programme is one year long: last semester, she took a class on Cultural and Social change in Latin America, conveniently taught by an Argentinian psychologist. Studying literature, film and poetry from Buenos Aires specifically gave her a bit of context to the porteño culture. And upon her return, a writing workshop will deconstruct her overall experience, where she will eventually produce a final essay encapsulating all she has observed and learned. Consequently, she tells me that this interview is proving very helpful – “I need to process!”

As we delve deeper into her studies, it becomes clear just how much not only working in La Boca but simply being in Buenos Aires has reinforced her particular interest in mental health stigma. Her final piece will require her to cite personal experiences beyond her work, shedding light on the community in which she has been placed. “I would say I see myself more as an observer than a traveller, paying particular attention to attitudes towards mental health in comparison to Americans.” Regina explains how the Argentinians have, in her opinion, a much more positive and open attitude towards mental health issues. “In America, we’re all so close-minded, it's almost as if it is a taboo subject. But here people are not embarrassed to talk about it, perhaps because it's more common, or maybe it's more common because people aren't afraid to address the problem.” To give the reader a bit of context: Argentina has the most number of psychologists per capita in the world with 50% of these based in Buenos Aires. I have been told by more than one porteño that most people have been to therapy; to go to a therapist is more ‘normal’ than to not go. 

Inside and outside the clinic, Regina has witnessed this sense of openness and honesty firsthand. She explains that during initial interviews with potential patients and home visits, people have always welcomed her into the conversation, often speaking directly to her as well as the professional psychologist. Away from the clinic, she recounts how struck she was when asked directly if she had ever been to therapy. In America, it would be regarded as intrusive to ask such a question, but the Argentinian in this context was not being rude, it's just a different perspective on things. “America should take a leaf out of Argentina’s book!” 

Regina’s other interest area is the intersection of mental health treatment and human rights; she feels that Argentina is one of the best countries in which to explore this. Indeed, our morning adventure is rather emblematic of how she has taken the initiative to engage in Argentina’s past and how its population remembers it. Relating back to what we saw at the Espacio de Memoria earlier, she contemplates how the grim reality that Argentines were locked up - in asylums or otherwise - by their own government in the recent past has affected mental health treatment. “It's something that I still need to learn more about before making any kind of judgements, but when I spoke to my coordinator at the clinic she agreed. For example, in 2011 a law affirmed the importance of rehabilitation within the community, as opposed to in an institute or asylum. I'm not sure quite what the link is, but it's definitely there.” 

There's no doubt that, since arriving in Buenos Aires, Regina has gained a lot from her experience. Linguistically, the improvement has been great – she tells me, satisfied, that she is now able to listen in to conversations in the streets or on buses and understand (!) after being constantly forced to listen and communicate in Spanish. Crucially, she’s now more sure than ever that she wants to pursue psychology, and looks forward to interning in the U.S. in the future. As for me, let's just say that next week is going to be very strange without her positive energy and laughter about the house!

 

This week, some relatively important people of the Buenos Aires media sphere caught wind of what was going on down in the SU Lavandería. Channel 2 is producing a TV show all about cooperatives, and wanted to use the laundry project as a model. It is an example of a small business that is run entirely by the people – more specifically young people from the deprived neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires.

David, who has been involved in the project from the start, told them all about the monthly meetings in which each worker can have their say about how the coop is run whilst Valeria Gracia (Founder of Voluntario Global) spoke of the history of the laundry project and why Voluntario Global began it in the first place. Of course, now it has become so successful that it no longer needs us…. But we love to be a part of it anyway! Stay tuned for a video made by us coming soon, and we’ll be sure to let you know when we're being broadcasted nationwide!

Although the journey from central Buenos Aires to Olivos takes over an hour, it was a peaceful commute through the city centre, out to the suburbs, and then into La Zona Norte. Olivia took me somewhat by surprise when she nudged me to tell me we were getting off here; we were in the middle of a leafy, middle class neighbourhood.

An Argentinian asado is not just your bog-standard barbecue. It is so much more, and if you tried to compare it to one your Argentinian friends may serve the chinchulin up to you first. Here´s a quick how-to…

This week, a few volunteers took a step back away from the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires to breathe in some country air and explore western Argentina. Mendoza is best known around the world for its Malbec and its CabSav (Cabernet Sauvignon). However, its vineyards are far more than just a series of production plants - they are a thing of beauty. To the human eye, their vines crawl all the way back into the rolling hills of the Andes that provide the backdrop to the open plains. 

We arrived at our hostel late at night, having chosen the two hour flight over the 14 hour bus ride (yeah, I know, cop out). We were somewhat surprised when we were met with a group of backpackers not partying the night away, but rather sat comfortably in front of a movie. Huh, we thought. By the end of the following day though, we could sympathise. Mendoza and its surroundings are undeniably at their best during the day whilst the sun is shining and the green grass gleaming. We took the plunge, resolving that we would get a better feel for the countryside on a bicycle rather than from the inside of a tour bus. Despite a lack of cycling experience, I stand by my decision. The bike rental shop gave us a little map of nearby bodegas and dutifully sent us on our way. To cycle down an empty road, vineyards either side and the Andes filling the sky, is something I will never forget. It’s as if you have just stepped onto the set of a classic Argentine movie, only the camera crew has been replaced by a pack of lamas and there's nobody to cry “Cut!”. 

These past six weeks, Buenos Aires has found a place in my heart for its vibrancy, its diversity – notably in terms of restaurants – and its openness. I never would have anticipated feeling so at home in such a large and unfamiliar metropolis. That said, Mendoza was, literally, a breath of fresh air; perhaps the most striking difference between the two, as we stepped off the plane we were hit by a cold but refreshing wind that, in Buenos Aires, is intensified by the Rio de la Plata. In a similar vein, the roads of Mendoza are less dense as they glide around trees and bushes and quaint little houses, free from the angst of any large city. However, after a few days away the VG house’s colourful walls were a welcoming sight. And it's back to the reality of the porteño lifestyle. ¡Que pena!